Naughty heavy bottle (they seem to have mended their ways

but it is swathed in copious tobacco-drenched black fruit and a superb line of acidity

These two new releases from proprietor Roberto Conterno are stellar

but they are a bit more stylish on the tightly wound

The wine is redolent of cherry liqueur

Henriot, Brut Millesime Vintage:2008 Naughty heavy bottle (they seemMineral and sleek with notes of lemon zest, white grapefruit, apricot stones, white pepper and hints of jasmine tea, opening up to praline and almond pastries. Its medium bodied, with beautiful balance and freshness. Very fine bubbles. Saline and intense finish. Drink or hold.